An inside look at the recovery effort—and why the fashion industry must do more
–Katya Moorman
Earlier this year, we wrote about the inspiring Black Friday capsule collection from The Or Foundation and Vestiaire Collective—a powerful showcase of Ghanaian creativity and circular fashion. Just weeks later, tragedy hit the heart of this work.
The Fire That Changed Everything
On January 1, 2025, a devastating fire swept through Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, destroying over 60 percent of the world’s largest secondhand clothing market. More than 33,000 square meters of stalls and structures were lost, along with the livelihoods of over 10,000 people. For the community of tailors, traders, upcyclers, and kayayei (material movers), the fire was a shattering blow to a self-sustaining system already carrying the burden of fashion’s waste.
The Immediate Response from the Ground
In the aftermath of the fire, The Or Foundation immediately mobilized its team of over sixty Ghanaians to begin recovery efforts. Working in collaboration with the Accra Metropolitan Assembly, they cleared debris, set up emergency relief tents, and provided clean water, safety gear, and first aid to thousands.
To date, the organization has distributed over 1.5 million dollars in direct relief to more than 9,000 community members, including tailors, upcyclers, secondhand retailers, and kayayei—the women and men who move materials throughout the market.
They also distributed over 200,000 dollars to support market leaders and lumber suppliers in purchasing materials to rebuild the market.
A Circular System in Crisis
As a massive secondhand market, Kantamanto provides a global example of real circularity in action. Despite being overwhelmed with low-quality garments from the Global North (15 million arrive weekly), the market recirculates 25 million garments each month through resale, repair, reuse, and upcycling. This vibrant ecosystem supports more than 30,000 people and proves that fashion can exist beyond the linear take-make-waste model.
Progress So Far—and the Road Ahead
The Or Foundation’s recovery plan includes three key phases: emergency relief, rebuilding infrastructure, and long-term resilience. Already, 1,000 fire extinguishers have been purchased and are being installed. Plans are underway to install fire lanes throughout the market, in collaboration with the Ghana National Fire Service.
Efforts are also being made to re-electrify the market safely, following standards set by the Electrical Company of Ghana. The Or Foundation is partnering with certified electricians and surveyors to make this possible. A new security force—trained in fire safety, first aid, and gender-based violence prevention—is being developed in partnership with SheGuards, a female-only local security team.
But these initiatives require significantly more support. The Or Foundation estimates that $5 million is needed to fully restore Kantamanto and ensure it is safer, stronger, and more resilient.
Who’s Stepping Up—and Who’s Missing
Vestiaire Collective, Puma, Debrand, eBay, and a group of 13 Belgian brands have stepped up to contribute to the relief effort. Their support has been meaningful, but it also highlights a troubling truth: the vast majority of the fashion industry has remained silent.
Despite profiting from the secondhand and resale systems that Kantamanto supports, most global fashion brands have yet to acknowledge the fire—let alone offer aid.
This lack of response is criminal. For years, Kantamanto has absorbed the overflow of low-quality garments from the Global North—an average of 15 million garments arrive each week. Despite this burden, the community recirculates more than 25 million garments each month through resale, repair, reuse, and upcycling. This is one of the most authentic examples of circularity in fashion today.
A Wake-Up Call for Fashion’s Waste Problem
This fire is more than an isolated incident. It is a symptom of a broken system—one in which communities like Kantamanto are left to absorb the cost of fashion’s overproduction and waste. Without globally accountable extended producer responsibility (EPR) policies, markets like Kantamanto are left without the infrastructure they need to safely and sustainably operate.
The Or Foundation and Vestiaire Collective have long advocated for such policies. In 2022, they launched a joint call for truly global EPR legislation—one that would allocate funds to frontline communities managing fashion’s discarded goods. If these policies were already in place, recovery efforts like this one would not have to rely solely on emergency donations.
What You Can Do Right Now to Help with the Kantamanto Relief Effort
Donate to the Relief Fund
Support the ongoing rebuilding efforts and direct aid by contributing to The Or Foundation’s emergency relief fund:
https://donorbox.org/kantamanto-fire-relief-2025
Share the Story
Use your social media or platform to raise awareness about what happened and why Kantamanto matters.
Contact Fashion Brands
Reach out to fashion brands you support and ask them what they are doing to contribute. Encourage them to support the recovery effort and take responsibility for their impact.
Educate Yourself and Others
Learn about the secondhand clothing trade, the true cost of fashion waste, and the need for globally accountable EPR policies. Start conversations and share resources.
Partner with The Or Foundation
If you work in sustainability, resale, or fashion, consider collaborating or supporting their long-term work. Contact: giving@theor.org
Kantamanto is doing the hard work of rebuilding. It’s time for the fashion industry—and all of us—to show up. Let this be the moment we choose solidarity over silence.
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