Allina Liu AW25 Review: Coquette Aesthetic with a Horror Twist

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Allina Liu’s lookbook tells the story of Ren and Mira, two sisters living in isolation—and the possessed dress that binds them.

If you thought Allina Liu’s sweetly sinister vibe last season was an anomaly, think again. This season, she leans even further into her love of horror, crafting a tale of two sisters and a possessed dress—otherworldly storytelling woven into every seam.

At first glance, Liu’s collection exudes innocence: a pale pink dress with full balloon sleeves, a powder blue puffer jacket topped with a Peter Pan collar. But beneath the softness, there’s a whisper of something darker. Look closer, and you’ll find corset-like lacing tracing the backs of otherwise demure silhouettes—subtle nods to both restriction and release. Pastel hues are tempered with a dominant presence of black, reinforcing the collection’s eerie duality.

“I love when people think my work is really sweet, when it reads as coquette,” Liu shared with us. “Because there’s an aspect of it that’s very dark and also a bit cheeky.”

Her girl isn’t just hyper-feminine—she’s a little freaky, too. Think Suspiria meets Sofia Coppola: ethereal with an unsettling edge, delicate but never docile.

Beyond its aesthetic, Liu’s brand is built on quality, sustainability, and ethical production—a quiet but firm rebellion against fast fashion’s disposability. In a world that often demands women be one thing or another, Liu proves that duality—softness and strength, sweetness and shadow—is far more compelling.

Credits
Photographer: Justin Lee
Models: Meg Murayama and Yeha Leung
Makeup: Anthony Tulve

–Katya Moorman


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