The vibe for the models was a little creepy…a little less cute.
Allina Liu’s Spring ‘25 presentation was shown in St. Mark’s Church –an appropriate venue as it’s both a house of worship and a performance space for those on the fringes –which more often than not, were women. Entering the presentation you were met with a large circle of women primarily in white–the models– facing outward.
Unlike the stereotypical blank and aloof expressions, these models are looking you in the eye and smiling. But smiling so hard it almost looks like it hurts…and it feels more creepy than friendly. Beyond the models, in the interior of the circle is a singular woman in black, the deity, who continuously contorts her body but with beauty and grace.
And this all works towards the vision of designer Liu. “Good For Her” is an exploration of femininity, power, and resilience. Set against a backdrop inspired by woman-led cults and the Pagan tradition of Midsommar, Liu’s show looks at femininity through the lens of the current socio-political climate concerning women’s rights.
The collection primarily employs a palette of whites, punctuated by several pieces in dark denim. Hyperfeminine features such as ruffles, eyelet details, rounded collars, and peplum tops dominate. Daffodils, used in Pagan spells for resiliency, are prominently featured with a quilting method called trapunto stitching, adding a layer of symbolic depth to the garments.
An exciting development this season is Liu’s partnership with Brooklyn-based lab, TômTex. TômTex has created a biomaterial made from an enzyme found in recycled seafood shells and mushrooms. This “leather” is not only cruelty-free but also naturally biodegradable, highlighting Liu’s escalating commitment to sustainability. The dress created from TômTex served as the centerpiece of the presentation, and was worn by the aforementioned lovely contortionist Anna Venizelos.
When I asked Allina what she was happiest about re: her show she shared
“I’m really happy about using my platform to say something. This show is really close to my heart. We’re at a pretty difficult socio-political time right now, and as many opportunities are being afforded to women right now –like potentially a first woman president– there are a lot of rights for women that are being threatened too. Like the overturning of Roe v Wade is absolutely terrifying in my opinion. So I really wanted to do something a little creepier for women, a little bit more empowering, a little less cute and…a little bit more fucked up!”
This statement by Liu underpins the essence of her collection and her deliberate choice to craft a narrative that is both unsettling and empowering. And we’re here for it.
Select collection images ©anna letson
–Katya Moorman
Credits:
Hair Sponsor: Shokunin Education LLC
Hair Product Sponsor: RICA Responsible Beauty
Beauty: Anthony Tulve Team
Lookbook Photographer: Anna Letson
Public Relations: Lindsey Media
Styling: Christina Knebel
Production Team: C. O’Neil Productions
Lighting: Devlin’s New YorK
Contortionist: Anna Venizelos
Design Interns: Lena Blumberg, Zoe Avraamides
NYFW Volunteers: Morgan Zuanic, Alex Levey
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