Highlights of Copenhagen Fashion Week 3 SS25

Henrik Vibskov

Henrik Vibskov’s SS25 collection is entitled The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance and references human empathy coexisting with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom. It is also inspired by hands.

In our journey of creating the collection, we explored how hands signify more than just physical help; they embody the essence of empathy, the ability to understand and share the feelings of others. Just as hands adapt to different tasks, we, too, must adapt to the needs of those we assist and to the world changing around us.

The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance features fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check, a jacquard woven checkered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a checkered knit, the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints—little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analog gloves. Peace-offering messages are hidden in the corners.

Grey outline fingers is an exclusively developed textile with a smock-like crinkle that resembles intertwined fingers, making use of 30-year-old archive materials from Dutel.

The silhouettes embrace adaptations from nature; there are wavy, soft amoeba silhouettes, the skin from gliding mammals is reinterpreted, fitting the garments into a square, letting the body give it shape, and letting the excess flow along the sides.

Vibskov shares that all fabric has been elevated within its means to be recycled or organic. For SS25, 85% of their garments consist of at least 50% certified fibers, and Henrik Vibskov strives to increase this number for each upcoming season. Certifications include GOTS Organic, GOTS Made with Organic, GRS Global Recycled Standard, EcoVero Viscose, and nontoxic dyes and prints.

Skall Studio

As Skall Studio celebrates its 10th anniversary, the Danish sisters behind the brand have crafted a Spring 2025 collection that pays homage to their signature aesthetic while embracing an even stronger commitment to sustainability.

As the sisters describe, “The collection is a tribute to the Skall signature that has defined the brand since the very beginning. Clean lines, classic and timeless design, feminine, yet casual silhouettes, and intrigued details. Always with a focus on natural mono fibres and craftsmanship.”

This ethos is evident throughout the “Villa Skall” collection, which draws inspiration from the 1960s and 70s, as well as the brand’s coastal Nordic roots. The palette of white, beige, and black creates a serene, summer-inspired canvas for the natural fiber-focused designs.

Loose, vintage-inspired, boho-esque dresses, bias-cut tank and skirt combinations, tailored fitted waistcoats, and classic wide pants paired with oversized summer hats merge the ultra-feminine and the masculine.

Skall Studio’s dedication to responsible production is at the heart of this offering, with 95% of the collection made from mono fibers. Danish wool, linen, organic cotton, and recycled cashmere are woven into tailored vests, airy dresses, and classic denim pieces. The brand’s signature knitwear, spun and knitted in local Danish mills, continues to showcase their commitment to supporting regional craftsmanship. Beyond the materials, Skall Studio has maintained its vegan, fur-free approach, further solidifying its position as a value-based, conscious brand.

The Garment

Founded in 2020 by Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen, the company is known for its high-quality knitwear and detailed tailoring. Its emphasis is on timeless craftsmanship and versatile design, which make for some beautiful collections. These collections are usually inspired by vintage garments and movies that span decades.

With this SS25 collection, the brand draws inspiration from Denmark’s first contemporary art museum with a long tradition of artistic excellence, Thorvaldsens Museum. This collection, in the words of Eskildsen, “marries classic sophistication with a modern sensibility.” She also mentioned to Vogue Scandinavia that this collection was inspired by thriller movies such as the 1980s American Gigolo and 1990s The Talented Mr Ripley.

The result is beautiful, flowing chiffons and amazing tailored pieces inspired by the romance and history of the environment while incorporating the 1980s and 1990s silhouettes. A selection of masculine-styled pieces, such as blazers and polos, were reimagined for womenswear to be breathable, comfortable, and ooze casual sophistication. The collection is full of the brand’s stunning neutrals, such as bone white and taupe, while incorporating subtle pops of sky blue and pale green.

The brand focuses on quality, sustainability, natural sourcing, and recycling. Flea markets across France provided Eskildsen with many of the intricately detailed lace and lingerie fabrics featured in the collection. To maintain accountability, the brand calculates the CO2 impact of each garment it produces throughout its production process and offsets the equivalent amount as necessary. This idea represents a tangible way to combat climate change that many brands will not even acknowledge.

Bonnetje

Copenhagen’s fashion scene has welcomed a new and exciting voice with the debut of Bonnetje at the city’s recent fashion week. Part of the “One to Watch” series, Bonnetje is making waves by transforming men’s suits into unconventional, feminine silhouettes that challenge traditional gender norms while championing sustainability through upcycling.

Founders Yoko Maja Hansen and Anna Myntekær have a unique design approach rooted in their passion for preserving the stories and craftsmanship inherent in old garments. Repurposing defunct materials lies at the heart of Bonnetje’s ethos, as the duo recognizes the inherent value in tailoring and aims to prevent good clothing from going to waste.

The brand’s Copenhagen Fashion Week debut explored the concept of “rush,” placing models in a frenzied airport setting as they navigated the collection’s deconstructed yet meticulously crafted pieces. From body-hugging shirts and asymmetric off-the-shoulder blouses to floor-sweeping dresses, the garments gave off a sense of effortless elegance.

This intersection of sustainability and inclusivity is what sets Bonnetje apart as a brand to watch. By preserving the craftsmanship of classic menswear and reinterpreting it through a gender-fluid lens, Hansen and Myntekær are challenging the industry’s outdated norms and offering a more inclusive narrative.