In an era where fast fashion is king, it may seem like mindless consumption is our only option. Dig a little deeper, though, and you might find a handful of better, more mindful ways to dress yourself. One direction to look to is the past. There was a period when philosophies, not sales, drove fashion decisions, and sustainability was more than just an afterthought.
Let’s explore the practices of the Japanese ordinary days to see how fashion wisdom can guide us toward a greener future.
The Wabi-Sabi Philosophy in Fashion
The Japanese concept of “wabi-sabi” embraces imperfection, transience, and simplicity. In the late 80s and through the 90s, as Japanese avant-garde designers entered the mainstream, they brought with them this unique way of thinking. Yohji Yamamoto, for instance, challenged European notions of femininity by introducing menswear-inspired elements into women’s collections. Due to its inherent confidence and fearless subversion of the norm, Japanese fashion remains a forerunner and an inspiration in the global fashion world.
Sashiko and Boro: Mending as an Art
When we think of embroidery now, its implications are, first and foremost, decorative. Whether initials or some catchy phrase, it’s meant to add creative value to a garment. There was a time, however, when embroidering was a necessity and a form of mending.
Originating in a poor rural community in Japan, the practice of Sashiko was a method wherein hand-stitching could strengthen, mend, and repair fabric. Thanks to better living standards and the changing times, Sashiko has evolved into a more intentional art form, where identical stitch lengths are strictly enforced, and a general emphasis on slow stitching is encouraged.
Atsushi Futatsuya, a Sashiko artisan born and raised around the craft, curates a series on YouTube called Sashiko Story, in which he delves into the complexities and nuances of his practice. In Volume 1, he brings up an interesting point–that timing was of the essence in the past. The speed at which one could stitch up fabric could mean life or death in the frigid winters–there was no time for slow stitches. Remembering the roots of Sashiko is essential for doing the practice justice, which is why such rigid “rules” are of less importance to Atsushi.
Boro, an extension of Sashiko, can be understood as a result of many generations of repetitive stitching. The constant overlapping of stitches over and over again is how an otherwise worn-out garment is made wearable again. Unlike Sashiko, Boro is not understood to be a technique, it just happens–the byproduct of extensive Sashiko. At its heart, Boro is a storyteller, a tapestry of the lives of so many and their additions to one worn fabric.
Furoshiki: One Cloth, Endless Possibilities
In terms of building a more sustainable relationship with your closet, mending is not the only way to go. Expanding the purpose of a single item, say wearing a dress as a skirt or as a top, encourages you to look for versatility within what you already own instead.
Furoshiki is a folding technique that allows a handkerchief or a scarf to double as a stylish handbag. What started as the wrapping of valuables in Tsutsumi cloths evolved into Furoshiki, as public baths, “furo,” became more common. The wrapping cloths would carry bathing necessities and, when lain out on the floor, be used to dry the feet. From the very beginning, Furoshiki emphasized multi-use, a mantra that should guide our everyday consumption and fashion choices.
Shibori Techniques: The Beauty of Natural Dyes
Tie-dye, a more familiar technique, has roots in various places and cultures. Its Japanese name, Shibori, means “to wring, squeeze, or press” and refers to the resist dye techniques artisans utilize to produce beautifully patterned and dyed pieces. Within the broader term of Shibori, there are specific methods to guide the process, each technique resulting in a different final pattern.
Arashi Shibori, meaning storm, results from wrapping dyed sheets around a pipe or pole. The process reveals a lengthened, lightning-shaped pattern, the stark white streaks even more closely resembling a storm against a traditional indigo background. Straying further away from our familiar understanding of tie-dye, Kyo-Kanoko Shibori is an extremely arduous and time-consuming dying process that yields the most stunning results.
Kyo-Kanoko, meaning “fawn spots,” requires the artisan to wrap thread around small fabric sections to form beads. The fabric is then dyed and finally untied to reveal the pattern beneath. This only grazes the surface of Japanese dyeing culture. These methods, along with other resist-dyeing techniques, use natural materials and processes from start to finish, minimizing environmental impact while producing stunning results.
Looking at these practices holistically makes it clear that they’re rooted in a distinct belief system. Whether it’s the “wabi-sabi” ideals or an emphasis on preserving culture, that belief system is centered on care. Care for preservation, care for origin, and care for nature.
The fashion system we operate in now can only be described as careless. Without strong beliefs to guide it, it falls flat, resorting to unfair working wages and harmful chemicals for profit. By finding new paths to believe in, like innovative materials and circular fashion, we might just be able to recreate something of meaning.
– Milena Synek
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