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Maison Margiela AW20


maison-margiela-aw-2020

Galliano proves showing the process is the product

At Maison Margiela A/W 2020 it was all about the process. The process of… upcycling? Recycling? Galliano calls it “Recicla”. He took vintage pieces from the house and deconstructed and reconstructed. Showing seams and taking labels out of hiding. How is this different from the young NYC designers who have been known to do something similar? As different as a nursery rhyme is from a Shakespeare sonnet. Deconstructing garments are having a moment now but Galliano takes it to a whole new level. The crazy proportions -oversized extra-large, the details-one tweed sleeve on a red patent leather trench, the weird color combinations that somehow not only work but are riveting – salmon and lavender or lime green and ochre anyone? These all combine to create a whole that is equal to its parts.

And can we talk about styling for a moment? There are one sleeved scarves. A thing he just invented that you never knew you wanted but find instantly intriguing. Wicker bags that are restored/remade from vintage ones and leather bags whose material comes entirely from manufacture waste. Scarves made of fabric laser cut to resemble plastic paillettes and a necklace made out of asparagus!

 Most of this is obviously not made for mass production. Galliano is suggesting the future of fashion can be a one of a kind piece culled from the past.

“The crazy proportions -oversized extra-large, the details-one tweed sleeve on a red patent leather trench, the weird color combinations that somehow not only work but are riveting – salmon and lavender or lime green and ochre anyone? These all combine to create a whole that is equal to its parts.”

-Katya Moorman
images Vogue Runway

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