It is common knowledge that we are tribal. That it’s in our DNA to want to fit in. After all our ancestor’s were the ones who stayed with the tribe. We know that because those that were cast out to fend for themselves wouldn’t like survive.
Think about this in relationship to fashion. Each season -and in fashion with a capital F there can be as many as SIX seasons- a designer shows a new collection, their latest ideas. But often they play it safe. Slight shifts in silhouettes or a new length of a hemline. Even the bolder work often comes from a well-documented playbook. Follow a reference too closely and you risk a feature on Diet Prada.
It’s only been a few years since Serre debuted on the runway to accolades yet she still creates with the daring of an unknown fashion student. She tackles issues in a way that reminds me of Alexander McQueen: the subject can be horrifying but the artifact, the clothing, is exquisite.
Long sleeves and high necklines read as protection, not modesty (though it could serve that purpose). Embroidered facemasks and ornate balaclavas re-enforced this idea. A houndstooth coat with sharp tailoring that then flowed to the floor like a ballgown was a standout for me. The model wearing it carried a water bottle encased in its own sleeve. The “it” bag for the next decade?
Serre continues to be conscious of the environment. Fifty percent of the collection uses upcycled material including bed sheets, table cloths and carpets.
“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer.” Was written on the invitation. A quote from “Dune”. With our global environmental crisis, rising populism and now an increasing pandemic this is a worthy mantra.
-Katya Moorman
photos Vogue Runway
video @suzymenkesvogue
