Material Innovations at Fashion Month: A Look at New York, London, and Paris

And just like that, Fashion Month is over. This season we only covered shows that we actually attended –and only in New York. However, that doesn’t mean we don’t pay attention to what’s going on in the other “fashion capitals”. We’re not interested in the latest trends and even using deadstock materials –while better– doesn’t excite us the way it once did. (Deadstock material really just means pre-existing materials if you think about it. Not so revolutionary but better than having them tossed or burned.

No, what we’re interested in is who is using new materials. Because if we want things to change brands need to start exploring better options.

This fall brought with it not just a whirlwind of fresh designs but some movement towards innovative materials that promise a more better future in fashion. Here’s what’s on our radar.

New York Fashion Week

The “Green Lady” from Brooklyn holding the lizard bag made from TomTex’s ‘Series M’ chitosan material

At New York Fashion Week, Collina Strada made waves with a striking lizard-shaped bag crafted from TomTex’s ‘Series M’ chitosan material, which exemplifies how fashion can embrace both form and environmental responsibility.

An apron style dress made from TomTex by Allina Liu

Similarly, Allina Liu introduced a chic short pleated dress utilizing the same sustainable material, merging elegance with eco-consciousness.


Models wearing Caroline Zimbalist’s SS25 pieces made partly from bioplastics

Caroline Zimbalist impressed us with dresses that incorporated her own bio-materials, pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.

Christian Siriano created two evening looks with fabric created from textile waste

Meanwhile, Christian Siriano presented two exquisite looks made from Circ Lyocell, a recycled textile that rivals silk in both look and feel, demonstrating the luxurious potential of better materials.


London Fashion Week

Patrick McDowell is a leader when it comes to better –and beautiful– fashion.

Patrick McDowell’s skirt gets its color from a bio-dye, and the silver appliques are mushroom leather

McDowell collaborated with OctarineBio to use PurePalette™, a biologically-created dye that significantly reduces the use of petrochemicals, water, and energy, and is a complete drop-in replacement for synthetic dyes, making the transition to sustainable dyes seamless. 

Mushroom leather from Ecovative was also incorporated into his collection. Here it was meticulously hand cut and embroidered onto an organza skirt dyed with the Octarine bio based dyes.


Milan…was mostly absent from this conversation

A set made up from denim scraps that will be repurposed still shows how much traditional fashion wastes.

Unless you consider Diesel and their show set which they state: The show set is created from 14,800 kg of denim scraps, to highlight the beauty of waste and the commitment to finding synergistic ways to reuse materials. After the show, the entire set will be reused and repurposed.

…we’re not convinced that this is adequate. A set made up from so many denim scraps kind of proves the insane and inherent wastefulness of the current system of production in fashion.


Paris Fashion Week

GANNI

A look from GANNI created with Polybion’s Celium material

I don’t know if we would have much to say about Paris if GANNI hadn’t made the move from Cophenhagen to Paris. GANNI is a brand that has consistently been at the forefront of material innovation. This season, GANNI worked with Celium, a material made from bacterial cellulose and used as a leather substitute. Celium is durable and lightweight, and is also chromium-free.

Nicklas Skovgaard’s dress for GANNI made from Oleatex

They also had up-and-coming designer Nicklas Skovgaard create pieces for the collection including a dress made from Oleatex, a new material made from olive industry byproducts.


STELLA McCARTNEY

The first to support many innovators in this space, McCartney showed a tank top made with Kelsun from Keel Labs—a seaweed-derived biopolymer yarn for luxury, soft fabrics.


To sum it up: there are some interesting developments happening but not nearly enough of them.

Why just one tank top in Kelsun at Stella McCartney? And why did she introduce new “vegan” bags that aren’t plant based? I looked on the website and it doesn’t even mention the materials so it’s safe to say petroleum based. Not a good look, no matter the aesthetic. GANNI far and away had the most looks created with new materials. Let’s hope they stick around in Paris and perhaps influence other designers.

These innovations are not just about reducing the negative impact of fashion but are also about creating a new aesthetic and material vocabulary that marries style with sustainability. As these new materials continue to be developed and reach the market, they promise to transform the very fabric of fashion into something we can all feel good about wearing.

–Katya Moorman


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