N Palmer is the label of Nicholas Palmer who launched it just last summer. Palmer received a BFA in fashion design from Parsons School of Design before going on to the MA program at Central Saint Martins. And he’s worked for a number of labels like Ralph Lauren and John Varvatos before starting his own.
The collection is ALL shirts made from repurposed ‘70s disco shirts and others that he found locally during the pandemic. They are cut-up and reconstructed into geometric patterns that are reflected in the video that he also made to show the collection.
We particularly love the sleeveless knit top with side zippers that open into pockets and the multi-print blouse with a pussy bow that would look at home on that earlier style icon Prince. One of Palmer’s strengths is his ability to blend these patterns together in a way that feels dynamic and hits a perfect note.
IA London
“What would you do
If you only had three minutes?
The Hourglass is ticking.”
Creative director of IA London Ira Iceberg founded the label in 2017, with a mission to experiment with both form and imagery. Iceberg studied fine art and printmaking rather than fashion design, which allowed the label to go in a more artistic direction, with aspects such as hand-painted images on garments. Along with inclusivity and diversity, the label highly values sustainability. The products are made locally and with long-lasting materials, and all printing is done digitally to ensure eco-friendliness.
IA London’s Fall ‘21 collection “Hourglass” was featured in a three-part short film. This collection’s concept surrounds the lessons the pandemic has taught us, specifically to not take anything for granted and to cherish the crucial people and things in our lives. “Hourglass” was shown through the perspective of Iceberg, whose family was affected by the COVID-19 pandemic.
The first part of the short film shows the featured model walking a runway showing the artistic and unique looks within the collection. The second part shows the same model standing en pointe, dipping their hands into black paint and running them across the wall. The third part shows the model standing in a wide red dress and a long blonde wig covering their face. Another person enters the scene and covers much of the wig and the dress in white paint, then cuts a square in the middle of the wig, revealing the model’s face.
London Fashion Week writes, “Each episode corresponds with a designer that holds personal significance for Iceberg: Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen and Rei Kawakubo.”
Standout pieces in this collection included a black poncho with a painted dog on the front, the red dress shown in the third segment, and a black dress shaped similarly to the red dress.
EIRINN HAYHOW
EIRINN HAYHOW is a London-based designer label that is leading the gender-fluid high-vibe couture conversation. The label is known for its unique artworks and motifs influenced by the daily “absurdities” found in everything and Erinn’s commitment to working sustainably.
There A/W 21 Magic Mushrooms show garments are based on a specific mushroom. (mushrooms being “a thing” in fashion as the moment) The pieces are inspired by colors, shapes, and textures as well as their wellbeing properties for humans and our eco styles. These pieces are created from natural dyes from foraging plants, berries, fruit, and vegetable waste. Everything has been made from salvaged cotton and sustainable fibers such as pineapple leather and hemp fibers.
She was overall inspired by mycologist Paul Stamets, his knowledge of mycelium, and his book ‘Fantastic Fungi’. The collection includes earthy tones and vibrant colors. A few stand-out pieces from the show would include the metallic trench coat, the dog graphic T-shirt with quilted sleeves, and the grey, pink, and white dyed puffer coat.
Lupe Gajardo
Lupe Gajardo started her brand in 2009 in Santiago Chile, focused in womenswear. She has designed more than 14 collections, participated in 9 national runway shows, collaborated with retailers, and held exhibitions all over the world.
Focused on a “zero-waste” pattern technique, her pret-a-porter collection focuses on a contemporary and modern style. The genderless silhouettes combine comfort and the luxury textiles result in high aesthetic. Lupe has created exclusive pieces with rare designs, cutouts, and high-quality value. She designs each piece with the idea of wearable art in mind to be worn all over the world, no matter where, and wants each piece to be timeless and exclusive.
A few of our favorite stand out pieces include her natural, earthy toned, angelic designs. Her blue, white, and black flare pants are a statement piece that we envision being very popular this spring. Such a simple design but such a bold look. Flowy clothing is always a good idea. Lupe had the right idea in mind when designing and executing her collection.
Art School
Eden Loweth, creative director and founder of the London label Art School, took complete control of this season’s collection after their former creative partner Tom Barratt had to step away from the label. They have always kept inclusivity within the Art School brand, and are known for their genderless outlook to the world of fashion.
Loweth’s vision for this collection, entitled “Ascension” was to bring about a sense of community amidst dark times, specifically for the queer community. i-D writes, “This season, a recurring topic of conversation during castings and fittings was the ongoing effect of the pandemic on the queer creative communities that Art School is both a product and representative of.”
A combination of dresses, jackets, and other genderless pieces were shown in this collection, many with the brand’s signature slashed pattern across the front. Made, of course, with queer and trans bodies in mind, the show represented these communities in several ways. Current RuPaul’s Drag Race UK stars A’Whora and Bimini Bon Boulash were featured, as well as transgender male model Finn Buchanan.
“Ascension” began with several black leather pieces, moved into bright red pieces and glittery red dresses, and ended with bright white dresses and jackets. A few standouts included A’Whora’s white trench coat, a red patterned leather trench coat, and Buchanan’s black satin distressed skirt. The show ending with the color white seemed to signify the overall theme of a light at the end of the tunnel for the queer community.
Loweth told The Face, “I’m here to prove queer people don’t need to live in the shadows as a flash in the pan sort of thing. I’m very serious about this being a long-term business, and for me to uplift as many people as I can along the way, for us to grow together.”
