During the latest New York Fashion Week, while the runways hyped the latest trends, a different kind of showcase was unfolding outside. Organized by Remake, a nonprofit championing ethical fashion, a determined group of fashion activists gathered to call out major brands such as Tory Burch and Coach for serious labor violations occurring in Cambodian factories.
Direct Engagement and a Denied Delivery
The activists, primarily Remake ambassadors and their community, attempted a bold move by directly delivering a demand letter to the executives of Coach, Tory Burch, Michael Kors, and Fossil. Their efforts spanned from the runway show of Coach to the physical headquarters of each brand. Unfortunately and unsurprisingly representatives from these locations declined to accept the letter in person so undeterred the group shifted their strategy to digital delivery.
The Core of the Protest
At the heart of the protest are allegations against prominent brands—Tory Burch, Coach, Michael Kors, and Fossil. Workers in Cambodian factories that produce for these labels are reportedly facing severe union-busting tactics. They’ve faced unfair terminations, threats, and even legal actions against union leaders—measures aimed to intimidate due to their involvement in worker-led elections to form the Worker Friendship Union Federation (WFUF), and elect its leaders. The protest highlighted these unethical practices, urging the brands to live up to their own codes of conduct which endorse workers’ rights to organize and collectively bargain.
The Power of Public Presence
The activists strategically positioned themselves at key NYFW venues, ensuring maximum visibility. This action emphasizes that brands like Coach and Tory Burch have to care about women beyond “it girls” like Alexa Chung and Ella Emhoff. They have a moral and corporate responsibility to intervene and ensure their suppliers adhere to acceptable labor standards.
As attendees entered and exited the shows, they encountered protestors’ earnest faces and poignant signs, prompting reactions ranging from fists raised in solidarity—mostly by contract workers—to nods of understanding and concerned expressions from the fashion crowd. This direct interaction sparked conversations and brought the harsh realities of garment workers closer to the forefront of the fashion industry’s biggest stages.
One attendee even remarked that the group were the “real role MODELS,” highlighting the powerful statement made by those standing up for ethical fashion.
The Original Demands for Change
The Worker Friendship Union Federation laid out clear demands for resolving the issues:
1. Reinstatement of all wrongfully dismissed employees with backpay.
2. An end to the repression, intimidation, and discrimination against union leaders and members.
3. Formal recognition of WFUF as a legitimate union.
Through their collective efforts with WFUF, and after many rounds of internal brand communications, Remake campaigned successfully to get two out of three of the workers’ demands met:
- Reinstatement of wrongfully dismissed employees with backpay: In early September, two of the impacted workers’ contracts were renewed with 50% backpay (9/02/2024).
- An end to the repression, intimidation, and discrimination against union leaders and members: Ventura Leatherware dropped its legal complaint against WFUF’s elected union leader (7/24/2024).
That leaves one remaining goal — Formal recognition of WFUF as a legitimate union (aka getting the union formally registered by Cambodia’s Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training, and accepted by Ventura). This demand is crucial to WFUF’s ability to protect its worker members and effectively advocate for their rights and better workplace conditions going forward.
This can also happen if these brands leverage their influence to ensure fair labor practices, demonstrating that fashion’s ethical responsibilities extend far beyond aesthetics.
Your Call To Action
What can you, No Kill reader, do about this?
Tag these brands and tell them to Stop Union Busting on their pages! Let them know that loving fashion and loving people and the planet should not be mutually exclusive. They can and should do better.
Coach | ToryBurch | MichaelKors | Fossil
See more info on this and other Remake campaigns here.
–Katya Moorman
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