I always say fashion is the perfect conversation starter, and I want my work to start some useful conversations.

Lucy Tammam is a London-based fashion designer who combines purpose and passion in her work. Known for her ethical approach to design, she seamlessly blends artistry and activism to address some of the most pressing global issues. Through her groundbreaking One Dress project, she’s reshaping couture as a collective catalyst for change.
The One Dress project began as an ambitious artistic and activist endeavor with the creation of One Dress: WOMEN. This original piece celebrated women’s empowerment through a collaborative couture gown embroidered with words symbolizing feminism and strength. Contributors from around the world chose words that resonated with their personal or collective experiences, creating a powerful tapestry of global female voices.
The latest chapter, One Dress: PLANET, merges haute couture with environmental activism. Created in partnership with Stop Ecocide International—an organization advocating for the establishment of ecocide as an international crime—the gown serves as both a work of art and a call to action. Featuring sustainable materials like organic cotton and Tencel, the dress is intricately embroidered with flora from endangered ecosystems, each piece hand-stitched by artisans from diverse backgrounds.
Participants can engage directly with the project by sponsoring embroidery segments, making the gown a truly collective effort and evolving statement against environmental destruction. There is still a little space left on the dress for additional flora embroideries offering opportunity for more people to become co-owners of the dress, allowing it to keep “growing” as it moves around the world. In addition, unique elements, such as a corset designed to enhance young artisans’ stitching skills, further underscore the project’s commitment to craftsmanship and education.
After launching during London Fashion Week, the dress is now “on tour,” acting as a focal point at major climate conferences and events aimed at keeping ecocide discussions prominent. The One Dress: PLANET is a brilliant example of fashion intersecting with activism. We chatted with Lucy Tammam to learn more.
Katya/NKM: In addition to the One Dress Project, you’re a bespoke fashion designer. What initially inspired you to move toward a bespoke model?
Lucy: I worked for a few years with the traditional wholesale model. It was fun and exciting, but I realized I had no control over fit or the waste, which quickly adds up – I really can’t stand waste. My garments are very tailored, and I genuinely believe there is immense value in wearing clothes that fit well.
My customers always come back for more; there is nothing like the experience of having a garment made just for you. A couturier is, by nature, a perfectionist, so offering my customers a perfect fit is the only way I want to operate. As much as I believe making (sustainable) garments supports workers and can do incredible things, the knowledge that there is enough clothing in existence to last six generations got to me – I don’t want to be part of that problem. So making a few very considered garments is the best way for me to be a designer.
Can you share more about the concept behind the One Dress project? What led you to focus on creating a single garment rather than a traditional awareness campaign?
I conceived of my first One Dress in 2016. I was watching the London Fashion Week catwalk shows and getting so frustrated with speed – seeing 30 / 40 / 50 garments whizz past in a 10-minute show. Each was made with immense skill and dedication, yet we would catch only a flash without time to savor it.
While I was only creating annual collections at the time, which usually contained about 50% archive pieces, reinvented, or just re-used (creating timeless pieces really helps with this model), I still felt I was part of the problem. I wanted to do something different – so I vowed to create a single dress that would take the same amount of time, effort, money, and woman power as a whole collection — One Dress (WOMEN) was born.
It took much longer than planned, but it is an incredible piece. I knew I would want to do another One Dress at some point, and when I met the team from Stop Ecocide International, I was certain I had found a good reason to do one. One Dress:PLANET followed my incredible collaboration with the European Space Agency, which followed my work using the Climate Stripes. So, the environment and planet and starting conversations about both were already very prevalent in my work.


The idea with One Dress: PLANET was to create an awareness campaign for Stop Ecocide International, but without creating more unnecessary products.
Allowing customers part-ownership of a piece of couture entirely changes the narrative of what couture is and who it is for; it enables investment in the craft of fashion without the elitism. It also ensures work for artisans and creates a gown that has been, and will be, used to start conversations about ecocide legislation. It is a way for me to use my work to further a significant cause and raise awareness.
You’ve mentioned that One Dress aims to sell emotion rather than a product. How do you see this redefining the relationship consumers have with fashion?
Currently, fashion is a dirty tool of overconsumption. A once revered and aspirational art form has been stripped to its bare bones, and the race to the bottom to produce cheaper, more disposable (not that it is – it has to go somewhere) clothing has turned the fashion industry into something quite ugly and toxic.
Couture is at the top of the pyramid yet inaccessible for most people. With One Dress: PLANET, I aim to offer people a chance to own a small piece of that incredible, aspirational thing.
They don’t get to wear it, but that isn’t really the point; they get to be part of it – they get to see it and know they helped make it happen without creating even more product the world doesn’t need. Owning this piece of couture acts as a reminder to be more conscious about future consumption, too. We’ve all just got to stop buying so many clothes.
Your brand works closely with artisans and craft cooperatives. Can you talk about how these partnerships influence your work’s ecological and ethical impact?
I manufacture everything in the most ethical and environmentally responsible way possible. Working with artisans means I am taking production back to its traditional roots. Hands are crafting the materials – old handlooms that don’t consume any energy; they work on human power and, in return, offer livelihoods and sustainable employment.
You take an ecological approach to both the design process and the production model. What challenges have you faced in maintaining this commitment, and how have you overcome them?
Sometimes, I wish I could just design for the sake of art. Still, I also love the challenges and restraints designing ecologically gives me. -I work to minimize waste, use materials that don’t do what the average ones do, and develop new fabrics to meet my design ideals. I try to use the challenges as inspiration and opportunity. I don’t think I’d have lasted this long if I hadn’t.

How has the concept of the One Dress resonated with your customers? Have there been any surprising reactions or feedback?
The One Dress concept is gaining traction. We created One Dress:PLANET in about 8 months (much better than 4 years!)
People are starting to get it. It is still an unusual concept, but I have noticed that people are fed up with clothes – they have wardrobes full of them and don’t need more, but who doesn’t love FASHION? For this One Dress, we introduced the concept of “twins” to allow people to have a physical copy of their piece of the dress – these have been so popular, and I wasn’t expecting that. People are making them into patches and badges or framing them.
What would you say to larger fashion brands about the importance of accountability in addressing environmental harm, especially in light of the proposed ecocide law?
Big brands take a lot from the planet – they need to start giving back. I am working towards a regenerative fashion industry that improves the planet. I want to see legislation that forces brands to either do that too or pay to repair it. The beauty of ecocide law is that it offers clear accountability. As Jojo [Mehta-cofounder of SEI] says – it’s not about the punishment, but the deterrent – once executives have a legal framework to follow, there will be much less likelihood of exploitation.
Do you see a growing willingness of people to look for alternatives to traditional high-street shopping?
Yes!! So much. People are bored of the high street, and who can blame them – they are all the same and all so miserable. The kids get it –they all buy their clothes second-hand now.
Beyond the One Dress project, what’s next for TAMMAM?
I’m working on an updated re-issue of the climate stripes for 2025 (pre-order here). I want to see everyone wearing the stripes on “Show Your Stripes Day” in June and starting conversations about climate change.

Lucy’s Favorite Things:
Book – I don’t think I have a favourite book, I don’t really have patience for reading anything longer than an article
Movie/Series – Edward Scissor Hands / Glee
Creative Inspiration – Everything
Food – I love trying new food, as long as it’s vegetarian. It’s amazing there are so many veggie options now, but it makes it harder to work out where to eat.
Trend that you like – Vintage – I think we have so much to learn from past designers and makers – I used to wear and collect vintage as a teenager, and I still do now.
Trend that you hate – Social media, I think it has killed critical thinking and made morons famous.
Quality in a human being – Passion
Person you admire – All the incredible women who are getting shit done.
Quote to live by – If there has to be a victim in fashion, let it be you.
What keeps you hopeful about the future – The kids. Let’s hope we don’t fuck it up too much for them before they get a chance to fix it.
–Katya Moorman
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