Queer Gritty Glamour: A Peek into Designer Sam Finger’s Studio

Stepping into the studio of fashion designer Sam Finger is like walking into a vivid collage of urban influences, graphic narratives, and deep personal expression. During our conversation with him, it was evident that his artistic vision seamlessly integrates his experiences and insights into each design.

This article does not follow a traditional Q&A format but is instead like a little peek into Sam’s world.

Sam on his new t-shirt project

What we’re working on now is our first graphic tee collection. I’m really excited about it because I have a background in graphics, and I’ve always wanted to do graphics for the brand, but it’s just we weren’t there yet, right? So we’re finally doing it for the first time.

A lot of what you see up here is, kind of current trends and tattoo culture. And how we could kind of take that into, a graphic narrative. But then there’s a deeper meaning that comes through later.

There’s Los Angeles, New York, and even Miami culture going on. And I’ve lived in those three cities and have an intimate relationship with them. [pointing to t-shirt] This vintage tee it says Hollywood, and then it has pain, suffering and misery and stars. Hollywood stars. And I feel it’s how I feel about L.A.

To live in LA, and playing into that sort of glamour but also there’s this underbelly of society along with the glamour. And that glamour is this thing that’s sort of there, but not even really there. And it’s more just looks like this… shitty suburban mess. And then the people that live there –that I’m interested in– kind of embody both sides of that feeling.

And New York is kind of tougher, hustling –making it happen kind of thing, that goes on in New York.

This hand says, it says liberation, rage, pursuit, relentless. There’s chains breaking. It’s what a lot of people are feeling these days. And, it’s also a lot about what our last show was about. And this is supposed to be sort of an extension of the last show.

Yes, let’s talk about your show!

When I first started the brand I was came from this corporate America – with that understanding of how to do a buy and how to merchandise and all that kind of stuff built into my brain so deeply that I just did it without even thinking.
But I realized with the growth of the brand, what matters to me is stepping into this more artisanal, artistic place. And the messaging is more important to me now. So, we will still focus on sellable pieces.

But I think more I’m looking at this brand as a more creative space that is about being a place for change is more important now than trying to make collections.
It’s this creative thing that’s really about making a change, a better world. Specifically for, marginalized communities.

We love that you use Sophia Lamar in your shows. She’s such an icon.

For me as a queer person, showing queer faces and specifically, for me personally, trans representation is really important to me. And so having somebody who is really a New York City pioneer of that, obviously dates back further.

But she is somebody in nightlife that has made a lot of space for others. And now is really flourishing. So, I think she’s just a really cool person to always honor and include.

Sophia Lamar + Sam Finger backstage at NYFW

On the importance of the fashion show

I think it’s important from an artistic standpoint being able to say that the value and the artistry of a show is not just in its craftsmanship or the clothes you made, but also how you set it.
Because really, the show is another way to express yourself as a designer. And I feel sometimes we look at designers just from this standpoint of construction and silhouette and technicality. And I was so tired of that in the industry as a designer.

And I was like, are you forgetting that this is a show? And this is an artistic expression? Because that’s what we’re doing here, and we’re making a work. And by being an artist, you’re saying something.

So this look (on right) was about stepping into that and really saying something and also a bit of a fuck you to the industry’s idea of what a designer is. And that a designer can literally just take a pair of camo pants and make boxers and cut a flag and sew it all together. And that, that is a design. And so that was kind of me redefining what design is to the brand.

Photo ©Morrison Gong

Right now Hannah is working on this finale dress. So we’re figuring out what’s the best way to finish things if you want to give it to somebody and say, “Wear this, it will be able to handle whatever.”

I’m hoping people like performers want to wear these clothes. That’s the goal. So you have to be able to you know, do a cartwheel in it.

SAM FINGER’s SS25 collection, titled GOOD MORNING AMERICA, presented at Wonderland Gentleman’s Club, examines the American landscape with a dystopian take on the times we are living. Leaving commercial ready-to-wear behind, Finger has abandoned any rules or expectations. This collection demonstrates his vision for the future with artisan and demi-couture looks utilizing sustainable methods up-cycling and deadstock materials.

The performance showcases the designers roots in theatre presenting the models in a burlesque fashion with unique character driven looks. The cast was formed from the designers direct community, with many looks designed with a specific model in mind. Each model performed a fearless, free version of themselves, both intimidating and alluring.