3 Different Takes on Slow/Responsible/Sustainable/WTF-Do-We-Call-It Fashion at NYFW

Who says all “sustainable fashion” looks the same? Rentrayage, Sam Finger and MELKE prove otherwise.

Slow. Sustainable. Eco. Responsible. These are just some of the words tossed around in an effort to differentiate brands that are doing things better –and often outside the fashion industrial complex aka “the industry”. (And they’re also the words used by those deeply embedded within the industry in an attempt to greenwash. But I digress.)

Whatever you want to call it, here are three brands that are using upcycling, better materials and better labor practices –but all with completely different aesthetics. Putting to rest the old idea that “being better” means being beige and boring.


Rentrayage SS 25

In creating this collection, I’m drawn to the idea of clothing that endures. These pieces are meant to last, both in their construction and in the way they connect with the wearer. It’s about moving away from the frivolous and toward garments that are resilient and meaningful. –Erin Beatty

They say: For Spring/Summer 2025, Rentrayage introduces a collection that speaks to the lasting relationship between individuals and clothing. This season, Erin Beatty’s designs embrace timelessness, with an emphasis on pieces that are meant to be worn not just for a season, but for years to come. The collection reflects a shift in focus from fashion as a fleeting trend to a celebration of durability, meaning, and quality.

Fresh yet familiar, the SS25 collection features pieces that feel lived-in and loved from the moment they’re worn. Beatty continues her commitment to sustainable design, not as a trend but as an integrated practice. Each garment is crafted with the intention of longevity, both in how it is made and how it feels when worn—like a second skin that tells a story with time. This is fashion that grows with you, adapting to your life while staying relevant far beyond its initial moment.

We say: Designer Erin Beatty knows all about the fashion industry. Prior to starting Rentrayage she had the brand Suno along with designer Max Osterweis. Suno was not only a darling of the fashion set (LVMH Prize finalist, finalist in the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund and Winner of the CFDA Swarovski Award for womenswear) carried in all the major stores, but also one of the first that prioritized working with local talent. And acknowledging it. It was considered a brand with a conscience but ended up shutting down in 2016.

We loved Suno and we’re thrilled Beatty has continued designing. With Rentrayage she does something difficult and makes it appear effortless: She transforms vintage textiles and garments into new pieces that are both fresh and sophisticated. These are clothes that have style completely divorced from any notion of trends. There are basics seen in the blazers and jeans, touches of lace to give visual interest and a sense of play with the combinations of prints and patterns.

The pieces in Rentrayage fit our “should we buy test” which consists of 1. Are the materials good quality? 2. Were the pieces produced responsibly? 3. Can we see ourselves wearing this in 20+ years?

With Rentrayage the answers are yes, yes and most definitely.


Sam Finger

GOOD MORNING AMERICA!

They say: SAM FINGER’s SS25 collection, titled GOOD MORNING AMERICA, presented at Wonderland Gentleman’s Club, examines the American landscape with a dystopian take on the times we are living. Leaving commercial ready-to-wear behind, Finger has abandoned any rules or expectations. This collection demonstrates his vision for the future with artisan and demi-couture looks utilizing sustainable methods like up-cycling and deadstock materials.

The performance showcases the designers roots in theatre presenting the models in a burlesque fashion with unique character driven looks. The cast was formed from the designers direct community, with many looks designed with a specific model in mind.

We say: While conceptually having the presentation in a strip club was fun and on-point, in actuality it did a disservice to…well virtually everyone. The models, who weren’t dancers, appeared ill at ease on the stage and a video projection behind them made the clothes impossible to see. This is unfortunate because the garments themselves are really interesting.

Speaking of which, we’re behind Finger’s vision of the future as artisan and demi-couture. Stand out pieces include the midriff baring multi-ruched dress worn by the iconic Sophia Lamar, the quilted skirt that buttons up the front and the white ruffled top. (shown above)


MELKE

MELKE’s The Book Fair balances nostalgia and joy, focusing on the importance of disconnecting and delving into a good book.

They say: The Book Fair, the MELKE spring summer 2025 collection, takes us back to the nostalgic world of the Scholastic Book Fair. Continuing in theme with designer Emma Gage’s carefree joy and childlike wonder, The Book Fair captures the anticipation of many of our favorite days in school: the book fair. From haggling with your parents for cash to buy the bendy erasers or ostrich pens, to waiting in line for the most recent installment in The Pony Pals series, Emma’s personal favorite, The Book Fair travels back in time and into the wonderful world books created for us as children. This collection focuses on the whimsical stories created in our childhood, reminding us we’re never too old to daydream.

Touches of soft tailoring, through the use of relaxed silhouettes, harness the fluidity of feminine and masculine silhouettes. Pleating and button down’s are a subtle nod to the uniform Gage wore all throughout middle school and highschool. Structured cottons, supple wools, and soft silks, are adorned with whimsical details, yet grounded by the wearable fabrics.

Details explode through No. 2 pencils made into fringe, leaping horses, and rope used to emulate the classic bendy erasers. An ode to the book fair, each motif references a favorite book or memory from.

We say: Designer Emma Gage chose a school bookfair as the backdrop for her latest collection, and cleverly created a minidress from #2 pencils to underscore her back-to-school inspiration. Capturing youthful moments in time is a mainstay in Gage’s work and it’s interesting to see how it translates into the clothes. Yes, there are the more conceptual pieces –like the aforementioned pencil dress as well as another one decorated with pencil sharpeners– but there are also some great pleated skirts and dresses. Emma also excels with her use of prints. We especially like the horse print pants.

MELKE sits in an interesting place that skews young and attracts a colorful, social-savvy crowd. I can imagine her developing a few pieces actually for children. An additional market to drink in this vision of MELKE.


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