Eight of the world’s most promising design talents have secured their place as finalists in the 2025 International Woolmark Prize – the original and perhaps most prestigious fashion award. Selected from hundreds of applicants, these designers will compete to shape the future of fashion through innovation and sustainability. And unsurprisingly, we have opinions! Scroll to them below or read more about the Woolmark Prize.
What is the Woolmark Prize and Why is it Important?
Created by Woolmark, the prize is a contest where designers are asked to incorporate Merino wool into their collections, showcasing innovation and sustainability. It’s important because it encourages designers to explore and implement eco-friendly practices. Wool, a natural fiber, is beneficial for the climate as it is renewable, biodegradable, and can help reduce fashion’s environmental impact. The prize highlights the importance of sustainable materials like wool in creating the future of fashion, promoting a more environmentally conscious industry.
Wait. What about Mulesing?
Excellent question, and the answer is a bit murky. The Woolmark Prize, as part of its broader initiatives under the Woolmark+ program, emphasizes sustainable practices including the ethical treatment of sheep. The initiative doesn’t explicitly mandate mulesing-free wool but is invested in promoting and researching alternatives to mulesing. This includes supporting woolgrowers in implementing best practices for animal welfare and transitioning away from mulesing. Our hope is by highlighting this concern, the designers will consider this issue and begin insisting on cruelty-free wool. It’s a challenge but possible. See Another Tomorrow for reference.
Each finalist will receive an initial $60,000 Australian dollars for the development of a Merino wool collection and will be supported by the program’s education and mentoring initiative, the Innovation Academy, which includes mentoring from industry leaders.
One finalist will be awarded the International Woolmark Prize and receive AU$300,000 to invest in their business.
Woolmark also welcomes IB Kamara as Guest Artistic Director for the 2025 final event. The multi-hyphenate creative is best-known known for his seamless understanding of style, image and the power of pop culture whilst championing inclusivity in fashion. Serving as the Editor-in-Chief of Dazed and Creative Director for Off-White, Kamara is one of the most exciting and innovative figures in the industry and his artistic direction will support the award in continuing to breakdown borders and barriers.
Two other awards are: the Karl Lagerfeld Award For Innovation and The Supply Chain Award.
The Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation will now be expanded to an industry wide award, presented to any fashion brand that has pushed the boundaries of wool innovation. The Supply Chain Award goes to an outstanding member of the supply chain who has demonstrated exceptional leadership and innovation in advancing sustainable practices. Which is crazy cool as an award. This is the third year of the Supply Chain Award. The previous 2 winners were Knitwear Lab and Byborre.
All finalists will have the chance to be stocked at the world’s leading stores and join an impressive alumni network which includes the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino Garavani, and Gabriela Hearst.
Below are the finalists. Some we know, and some we’ve never heard of…but now we have and we’re introducing them to you as well. They all are really unique and have clear “points of view” as the fashion peeps like to say.
ACT N°1
WHO: Luca Lin
Background + Education: Luca Lin was born and raised in Italy’s Reggio Emilia to Chinese immigrants. He completed his education at Istituto Marangoni, a renowned fashion school. ACT N°1 was originally founded in 2016 by Lin and Galib Gassanoff. They have recently parted ways and now Lin is solo at the helm.
PROPS:
In 2017 ACT N°1 won Who is on Next? organized by Vogue and AltaRoma. Since September 2018 the brand started showing at Milan Fashion Week and in 2019 established a headquarter and design studio in Milan.
It has been worn by celebs such as Dua Lipa, Lady Gaga, Rita Ora, Lizzo and Beyoncè.
Our Take: Unlike many of the brands listed here, we couldn’t find anything specific about sustainability practices. Though we noted that better materials such as wool are already employed. What is interesting though, beyond the clothes which are quite striking, is the commitment to exploring social issues through the collections. We hope that thoughtfulness extends to their production practices.
Diotima
WHO: Rachel Scott
Background + Education: Based in New York with roots in Jamaica, she trained at Istituto Marangoni Milano
PROPS: This brand is catching major buzz at the moment. Rachel Scott won the CFDA American Womenswear Designer of the Year as well as their new Empowered Vision Award. The latter being specifically for Black designers.
Our Take: We’ve been a wee bit obsessed with Diotima for awhile. It stands out for its commitment to sustainability and its celebration of Jamaican heritage. Scott’s designs often incorporate natural materials and are produced in collaboration with these artisans, blending Jamaican craftsmanship with modern, minimalist style. This sustainable approach extends to manufacturing the woven garments in New York City, supporting local production and reducing the environmental impact typically associated with global shipping. We know she’s been expanding her aesthetic but think wool is a perfect material for her classic ‘doily’ work.
Duran Lantink
WHO: Duran Lantink
Background + Education: He graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld Academie and later from the Sandberg Instituut in 2017.
PROPS: Winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize at LVMH Awards (not to be confused by the KL Award listed above)
Our Take:
Lantink made waves during Covid with his fashion show via drones. It was seriously cool. He has gained recognition for his creative use of upcycling, transforming pre-loved pieces and deadstock into new, unique garments. His work often involves merging traditional handiwork with modern technologies, reflecting on environmental and social issues within the fashion industry. He also also believes a garment is never finished so willing to re-do for you. Something I find really interesting. I could be wrong, but in his recent collection it seems like he took those things made for car seats and converted them into skirts? See image above.
Ester Manas
WHO: Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre
Background + Education: Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre are both graduates of La Cambre in Brussels, a prestigious art school known for its strong design programs. Ester Manas, in particular, worked in various trainee roles at high-profile brands such as Acne Studios, Balenciaga, and Paco Rabanne.
PROPS: ANDAM Prize and H&M Design Award. Worn by Bella Hadid, FKA Twigs, and Barbie Ferreira
Our Take:
Ester Manas is committed to both sustainability through the use of deadstock and upcycling, and size inclusivity. Both things in short supply in the fashion industry. While deadstock is good, if it’s synthetics it’s still not great. We’re excited to see how they can transform some of their designs into wool. There’s alot of potential.
LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI
WHO: Louis-Gabriel Nouchi
Background + Education: Nouchi graduated from La Cambre school of visual arts and started his career with experiences at Vogue Paris and under Raf Simons. In 2017, he founded his own menswear brand, LGN
PROPS: ANDAM Fashion Award
Our Take:
A unique thematic focus set LGN apart. Nouchi is known for drawing inspiration from literature to create collections that are not only fashion-forward but also intellectually engaging. This approach includes using themes from well-known works and incorporating these into the fabric of his designs, making each collection a narrative experience as well as a fashion statement. We’d like to know more about his sustainability practices because mere “striving to improve” is insufficient IMHO.
LUAR
WHO: Raul Lopez
Background + Education: Grew up in Dominican culture of NYC and nightlife scene. Self taught designer, originally with Hood By Air before launching his own line.
PROPS: the CFDA Award for American Accessories Designer, LVMH Prize Finalist. Worn by many celebs including Rihanna, Solange Knowles, Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa,
Our Take:
We love the swagger of the brand that is uniquely NYC. In terms of sustainability, while specific practices aren’t highlighted, the brand is known for its thoughtful approach to fashion, considering affordability and accessibility, and catering to all gender identities. One might argue that this inclusive and community-focused approach aligns with broader sustainability goals by fostering a more responsible and ethical fashion industry. We hope as he expands, a broader sense of responsibility to the planet expands as well.
Meryll Rogge
WHO: Meryll Rogge
Background + Education: Educated at Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Largely unknown to non-fashion insiders, she was at Marc Jacobs and was head of women’s design at Dries van Noten before starting her own line.
PROPS: LVMH Prize Semi-finalist
Our Take: Not to put too fine a point on it: Rogge is an experience female designer and it shows. While the majority of fashion designers –especially at the big houses– are men, our biased opinion is that women designers are best situated to “get” women and Rogge is an example of this. Her work is the perfect blend of sophistication and fun. We’re really excited to see what she creates for Woolmark.
Standing Ground
WHO: Michael Stewart
Background + Education: He studied at the Limerick School of Art and Design in Ireland before establishing his brand.
PROPS: The Savoir-Faire Prize at the 2024 LVMH Prize
Our Take:
Stewart incorporates deadstock materials into his designs, drawing on his rural upbringing for inspiration. This approach not only underscores his commitment to sustainable fashion but also adds a unique narrative layer to his creations. We also like his insistence on doing things his own way/made to order, and his insane level of detail and intentionality. We look forward to seeing what he does next for Woolmark.
–Katya Moorman
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