On Tuesday, October 15th, 2024, the world saw something it hadn’t seen in six years: a Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Clocking in at 2.6 million viewers, it’s clear that the Angels’ return had been highly anticipated. Following the release of the Angels and Demons documentary two years ago, I’m sure we were all eager to see how the brand would try to bounce back after landing in hot water. And this wouldn’t be the first time.
The problems at the brand became public in 2019, amidst the revival of the #MeToo movement and the indictment of Jeffery Epstein.
It was revealed that Epstein had been a financial manager for Leslie Wexner, the billionaire behind Victoria’s Secret. The discovery of this tragic partnership marked the beginning of intense scrutiny for the brand. Emboldened by #MeToo, several former and current Victoria’s Secret employees began to come forward and talk about the sexual harassment and misconduct that they experienced while at the company. By November of that same year, Victoria’s Secret announced they would cancel their annual show indefinitely.
Even before those shocking revelations, the brand had already been receiving considerable criticism, leading up to the eventual cancellation of the show.
With fourth-wave feminism on the rise, consumers were becoming increasingly fed up with the sexualized and objectifying nature of Victoria’s Secret and its star-studded annual extravaganza. The stick-thin beauty standard that had defined the fashion industry–and the societal expectations of women–was finally being deconstructed. Victoria’s Secret was a shining example of the outdated ideals women were rejecting.
So when the brand announced its return in May via Instagram, it’s safe to say that people were expecting the rebrand of a lifetime.
Unfortunately, that’s not exactly what happened. The brand’s “new and improved” angle was female empowerment on steroids–but it was at odds with the runway and cringe at best.The show opened with a voice reciting supposedly uplifting mantras like “Women hold the reins” and went on to have not one but three performances by female pop icons to bring it home.
Of course, we can’t forget the record amount of diversity on the runway. This was undoubtedly the brand’s most inclusive cast to date, with plus-size models like Paloma Elsesser and transgender models like Alex Consani making their Angel debut. But it wasn’t enough. The feminist bells and whistles didn’t do much to address the actual problems within the brand. To put it plainly, I wasn’t buying it. Not for a second. And here’s why.
For starters, Victoria’s Secret needs to fundamentally understand the permanence of the internet, particularly social media.
It felt like the brand was trying to “empower” viewers into forgetting every toxic message they’d ever promoted or every scandal they’d ever been involved in. Even if engagement somehow began to return to 2010 levels, the errors of Victoria’s Secret will live on forever in the digital realm. Moreover, Gen-Z is arguably the most unwilling generation to forgive and forget. We invented cancel culture. We have zero tolerance for objectification and a very clear definition of inclusivity and body positivity. And rightfully so!
There is no more room for BS-ing consumers with surface-level attempts. Not in this day and age. Not when information is just a click away. It’s either put up or shut up. It will take more than a change in messaging to convince consumers that Victoria’s Secret has changed its ethos.
It’s not that people immediately think of the male gaze and objectification when they think of a lingerie brand. It’s that they think of the male gaze and objectification when they think of Victoria’s Secret, through no fault but its own.
The company has inextricably linked its branding, advertising, and products to an unrealistic idea of women created by men.
One example is Michael Bay’s 2010 ad campaign, which featured half-clothed women on motorcycles, pool tables, and anywhere else a man could imagine spending his time.
Then there’s the time that Martin Waters, the former CEO of Victoria’s Secret, admitted that the brand “needed to stop being about what men want.”
The list goes on. The problem is that the messaging of Victoria’s Secret was flawed from the start. If the company truly wants to address the issue, it can’t focus on the symptoms. It needs to be addressed at the root. It is more challenging now that lingerie brands like Parade, SavagexFenty, and Intimissimi are setting the inclusivity standards consumers want to see. These brands laid their foundation in body positivity, and it shows. So I’m more inclined to choose them.
Victoria’s Secret could take steps to start enacting the change it claims it wants to see.
The VS Collective was a step in the right direction. The 2021 initiative focused on rebranding the quintessential Angels into something more modern and empowering. The company chose to highlight female icons like Megan Rapinoe and Priyanka Chopra Jonas in an effort to redefine “sexy” and praise women for their accomplishments rather than their looks.
I believe Victoria’s Secret could take it a step further and ask consumers what change they would like to see in the brand instead of just assuming. By having real-world input from everyday women, Victoria’s Secret would be able to accurately address the concerns of its consumer base instead of just taking a shot in the dark when it comes to representation.
However, when it comes to the Angels’ return, I think that VS should permanently nix the show.
At its peak, it had 12.4 million viewers, so it’s evident that a comeback was always the goal. And don’t get me wrong—I completely understand the cultural significance.
But we are just not living in the same world that we were a decade ago. My generation has worked to raise the standards of inclusivity and representation from where they were when the VS show was in its prime. And our fight is far from over! The truth is, this resurrection was a step back. And it’s one we simply cannot afford. New York Times Fashion Director Vanessa Friedman said it perfectly: “There’s a distorted history that lies under the lace that cannot really be erased.” I envision –and expect– a future where fashion celebrates substance over spectacle, empowering women through genuine representation and respect.
–Arola Oluwehinmi
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