–Katya Moorman
It’s hard to produce a fashion show that’s light and fluffy when most people are experiencing dysphoria. We are all wading through political treacle at the moment. Treacle produced by the intensity of global wars and UK’s growing problems; it’s an unreal time. –VIN + OMI
Vin + Omi are a creative powerhouse that sow and show fashion’s possibilities. They are the antidote to the beige-barefoot-and-utterly-boring version of “sustainable fashion” that, yes, was still walking some catwalks in London this season (yawn). Their clothes are made for having fun in, and the club kids who flock to their shows prove it.
Their latest collection, Dysphoriana, channels the restless energy of now — the unease of the world as it is — while insisting on invention as a way forward.
True to form, the duo continue to treat textiles like a laboratory. They have once again worked with King Charles’s Sandringham estate, turning its plant waste into something radically new: a fabric created from red-barked dogwood, dyed in deep purples with dogwood and logwood.
This dress — worn by India McTaggart, royal correspondent for The Telegraph — became an emblem of this vision, bringing the idea of reimagined heritage straight onto the London runway.
This marks Vin + Omi’s third world-first textile development, joining earlier experiments with nettle, butterbur, and wood clippings that they’ve transformed into thin, strong paper-like material — one look this season was a crisp white “paper bag” dress cut from it.
Repurposing is never an afterthought in their hands. Prue Leith — known to American audiences as a judge on The Great British Bake Off — walked the runway in a scarlet gown cut from a discarded RAF Brize Norton parachute, launching a new collaboration with Britain’s Royal Air Force to rethink how its waste materials might live again as clothing.
Another set of pieces came through a partnership with Oxford Brookes Art and Design Foundation and Multaka Oxford, an organization creating opportunities for forced migrants. Together they reimagined UK-sourced plastic waste from Vin + Omi’s own cleanup schemes into appliquéd flower dresses. The designers also worked with the British Heart Foundation’s secondhand stock, reworking donated garments into fresh, unpredictable statements.
Vin + Omi show that sustainable fashion doesn’t have to retreat into safe minimalism. Dysphoriana embraces the uncertainty of our time and answers with ingenuity, cultural bite, and yes — a streak of subversive joy. It’s a reminder that change can feel raw and charged, but still create space for beauty and reinvention.
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