At No Kill Mag, we are constantly looking for upcoming trends in fashion and sustainability. From electroactive fabrics to laser cut dresses there is always something new to discover. And we’re currently obsessed with Biomaterials, specifically the new and small designers working with them. What are biomaterials? Well, typically, they’re used in the medical field. Still, these designers are making new materials that positively interact with the biological world. We’re talking biodegradable, air-filtering, magical materials that are making their way into our homes and closets. Below are four designers developing biomaterial innovations.
Carolyn Raff
Carolyn Raff is a designer best known for her algae bioplastic, creating bio-based and biodegradable sequins made from algae. She is a freelance material and textile designer based in Stuttgart. She created a sustainable design tool named Cradle 2 Cradle. Cradle 2 Cradle helps designers understand where material and goods come from and go in to help them make conscious decisions on what they’re using and where a product goes at the end of its life. When it comes to the fashion industry, this is major for resource usage and controlling and regulating the flow of fabric and clothing waste going into landfills.
Hannah Elisabeth Jones
Hannah Elisabeth Jones is a researcher, educator and multidisciplinary artist-designer specializing in bio-based materials and organic color. Before receiving the Burberry Design Scholarship to study MA Textiles at the Royal College of Art in 2017, Jones invented a patent-pending material, BioMarble, at Manchester School of Art. Made from paper waste, BioMarble has a unique texture and surface pattern.
Her recent initiative involves developing regenerative materials exclusively from grass clippings collected by hand in North-West England. These materials are free from both synthetic and natural adhesives. Grass, a readily available local resource, differs from other fiber plants and paper-producing trees because it regrows after cutting and does not perish. These materials are biodegradable and enhance the organic content of soil once decomposed.
The properties of the fibreboard, paper, and cordage vary, suggesting a range of potential uses. As part of her doctoral research, Hannah will evaluate the mechanical properties of the fibreboard at her university, assessing its performance relative to conventional single-use packaging materials like polystyrene and molded cardboard.
Jen Keane
Jen Keane is a biodesigner who’s transformed bacteria into the fabric. Yes, you read that correctly, Bacteria. Co-Founder of Modern Synthesis, a London based biomaterial company, Keane created a process of “microbial weaving” by manipulating bacteria found in kombucha, also known as k. Rhaeticus. Not only is it innovative, but this synthetic fiber is also stronger than steel and more resistant than Kevlar, which is what they use in bullet-proof vests. We can’t believe bacteria could be transformed into something that strong! Keane has even used this new process to create “grown” sneakers. While this material is crazy strong, it’s also incredibly lightweight. Modern Synthesis has also collaborated with GANNI using their material on the cult Bou Bag
Scarlett Yang
Scarlett Yang, a graduate from Central Saint Martins, came on our radar when she used algae extract and silk cocoon protein to create a glass-like dress that grows over time and can decompose in water within 24 hours. Factors like Temperature and Humidity can affect the shape of this dress, so it looks completely different depending on where it’s worn. The dress will begin to biodegrade after being exposed to water, a process that can take only a few hours. This design won the LVMH X Maison/0 Green Trial Prize. Since then she has collaborated with brands such as Paco Rabanne and Rolls-Royce.
Alice Potts
Alice Potts is working with scraps and sweat, no seriously sweat! Her work includes ballet shoes and athletic wear covered in crystals grown from sweat. Potts has even created bioplastic sequins made from petals, vegetable scraps, and other natural waste. These embellishments challenge how we see waste and create stunning biomaterials for clothing and accessories. The pandemic actually pushed Potts to work with local biomaterials more substantially since she couldn’t go out and experiment with algae. Since then she’s collaborated with Gucci and more. We’re excited to see what Alice will continue to create in the future!
We’re going to keep our eyes out for more designers working with these unique biomaterials. Who wouldn’t love a dress or set of earrings made from materials that not only biodegrade but positively impact the planet? We hope to see more one wear only, biodegradable gowns like Scarlett Yang’s work on the red carpet and at major events.
Small designers and transparent brands are resetting how we make clothing, but watch out because even in the new biomaterials market there’s greenwashing. Oil and Chemical Companies such as DOW are labeling and branding their newest cellulose-based plastics as new “biomaterials”. The chemical process used to create these fibers and material creates a mass amount of waste and the final product itself is a non-biodegradable plastic. As we see more designers using and creating these new biomaterials, we also have to keep an eye out for those making a difference vs major brands trying to save face.
–Julie Klein
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