Our Top 8 Fashion Collections SS20
Our favorite collections from fashion week(s)
We looked for distinct points of view, fresh outlooks, relevance oh–and great designs and narrowed it down to eight collections that felt…well… like No Kill Magazine! Check them out and let us know what you think!
When André Courrèges launched his label in the '60s he was influenced by the space age and futurism and was always pushing the use of new innovative fabrics such as plastic and vinyl in his signature minidresses and architecturally-sculpted clothing. The silhouettes and material were both radical contrasts to the current bourgeoise fashion that connected with the younger generation of the time.
Fast forward to 2019 where Yolanda Zobel is just a year into her revival of the Courreges label. How does one take such an iconic house and make it relevant yet still recognizable? Zobel asked herself what Mr Courreges would do today? "He would not have continued with the plastic. Plastic was the symbol of the progress of that time but today the world is drowning in plastic."
Today Courreges has a partnership with Instituto-e,* to create a series of garments using the skin of the Pirarucu fish. Found in the lakes and rivers of the Amazon, it is one of the largest freshwater fish, and serves as a staple in the locals’ diet. As the skin is discarded after the Pirarucu fish is eaten, it now serves as a creative, sustainable, and ethical new replacement for leather.
Our approach is based on experimentation and the belief that sustainability is about creativity — not austerity; activation — not preservation; pleasure — not abstinence; today — not tomorrow.
The designs themselves retain the energy, vibrancy and fluidity that are as relevant today as ever – for the next generation changing the direction of the future right now.
*Founded by @oskarmetsavaht, Instituto-e is a non-profit civil society organization whose mission is to transform Brazil into a model of sustainable human development.
Gareth’s work is full of pop culture references and reminds us of an art school project in that it’s quirky and unconventional. A recent fashion grad from Central St. Martins his SS20 collection features jackets created from discarded keyboard keys and hair clips knitted into sweaters. Knitwear is central to his work and as he likes to say his hand knitted pieces are virtually waste free.
Perfect for our club kid friends or those who want to look like one…which, you know, is most of Bushwick.
Marine Serre has always been a conscious designer but this season her collection had climate change front and center. Called Marée Noire which translates to Oil Spill, her story for the runway was about survivors of climate wars and mass extinction. And don’t think this is just a PR stunt or a sort of greenwashing. 50% of the collection is made from upcycled materials and the rest is produced locally.
The first french designer to win the LVMH Prize she is constantly questioning the relevance of another fashion brand and pushes through to an answer that brings sustainability, wearability and couture all to the table.
To quote Sally Singer in her review of the collection for Vogue
Bravo to a major Italian house for putting sustainability front and center! And kudos to Risso for showing a collection that had charm and beauty by the bucketload and upcycled textiles, organic cottons, and ‘recuperated’ leathers. He wanted to create a ‘joyous protest’—‘an homage to nature and our sense of humanity’—and he succeeded.”
We love the colorful water color prints that to me seem classic Marni and the bright colors are eyecatching and fun. We added the illustration by the amazing Fahren Feingold of the Marni girl’s hair/makeup.
Kerby Jean-Raymond came to Brooklyn once again for his fashion show. This time to the Kings Theatre on Flatbush. This was the third installement of a trilogy he calls “America, Also” that looks at the erasure of African American narratives in pop culture. The inspiration for this collection was Sister Rosetta Tharpe, a queer singer-songwriter of the ‘30s and ‘40s considered to be the godmother of rock and roll. Musical references were everywhere from piano shaped bags to curvy lapels that referenced musical shapes. The clothes were as bold as Kerby Jean-Raymond’s celebratory vision steeped in his history and culture.
Richard Quinn makes us mental with his “more is more” aesthetic. The exaggerated shape of these silhouettes remind us of cream pufffs –in a good way! The fact that he creates his prints digitally in his own studio–consuming 70% less energy and 80% less energy than conventional ways is like the cherry on top.
What’s not to love about Stella McCartney? She could have rested on her laurels and been just another “famous kid” but instead she has become a trailblazer and outspoken advocate for sustainable fashion. Having recently left Kering she is now at LVMH where she is using her position to encourage other designer’s to take action.
But the sustainability wouldn’t matter if the clothes sucked. They don’t - they are chic, soft and wearable. Sidenote: her collaboration with Adidas is also super chic, fun and affordable!
Question: Can anything so beautiful be sustainable?
Sarah Burton sent dresses down the runway with exquisite details and a dreamlike vibe. They are clearly not for everyday wear but special events. The sort of events where one might be tempted to sacrifice their ethical values "just this once" for the perfect dress. But this McQueen collection proves there's no need to compromise.
The lace, organza and tulle were upcycled from previous seasons and the linen from Northern Ireland was from flax grown at a particular female-owned farm. All the details were this intentional: from the dress designed with embroideries of endangered flowers to the employing of local artisans to create the linens and wools. We're not pretending this is affordable for everyone but it's encouraging to see such a prestigious design house creating in a planet friendly way.